Travel
Sit and Forget in the Woods
Designed in 2015 by Makoto Nakayama of nA Nakayama Architects, Zaborin Ryokan is discreetly sited in a birch and pine grove in Niseko’s Hanazono woods. Fifteen private pavilions—each cast in concrete against cedar-board molds—are arranged like quiet sculptures among the trees. Expansive floor-to-ceiling glazing and sheltered internal courtyards invite dappled light to play across warm, textured surfaces, blurring the line between indoors and the surrounding forest.
nA Nakayama Architects is a Sapporo-based practice founded in 1988 by award-winning architect Makoto Nakayama. From its earliest work, the studio has balanced a deep reverence for traditional Japanese forms—drawing inspiration from machiya townhouses and the Katsura Imperial Villa—with a modern minimalist language that emphasizes environment, atmosphere, and light. The firm’s signature works include the Zaborin Ryokan villas, where concrete cast against cedar molds complements the surrounding birch forests, and the OOAK villa in Niseko, celebrated for its slender structural rhythms and seamless indoor–outdoor connections. Whether crafting a quiet retreat or a community landmark, nA Nakayama Architects retains a singular focus on creating spaces that foster a sense of calm presence and lasting connection to place.
At Zaborin Ryokan, each villa celebrates solitude and ritual. Two volcanic-spring onsen baths—one stone-lined within an indoor bathing chamber, the other an open-air rotenburo on a generous terrace—are fed directly from Zaborin’s own gensen kakenagashi spring. Without dilution or mixing, the water arrives at the perfect bathing temperature, its mineral warmth drawing steam against a backdrop of birch trunks and distant views of Mt. Yōtei.
Evenings at Zaborin unfold around a multicourse kaiseki tasting menu crafted by chef Yoshihiro Seno. Hokkaido’s seasonal bounty—succulent crab, silken sashimi, and foraged mushrooms—is arranged with elemental precision, each course reflecting the quiet restraint of the architecture itself. Mornings begin in a private dining room wrapped in glass, where steamed rice, miso soup, and grilled fish are served against the mirror-calm of a lily-studded pond, ducks gliding through gentle ripples.
Attention to detail pervades every moment: charcoal-gray samue robes await your return, tea is replenished without prompt, and slippers are arranged just so. Paths winding beyond the pavilions lead only to surrounding trails—no communal baths, no shared spaces—ensuring that every element of Zaborin remains utterly private and personal.
Zaborin’s approach to luxury—rooted in natural materials, thoughtful craftsmanship, and minimalist restraint—resonates with håndværk’s ethos. By using volcanic stone, cedar, and concrete to create lasting impressions, Zaborin invites a slower pace, rewarding those who pause to discover the subtleties of craft in each detail.
For travelers seeking a refuge that honors Japanese tradition through the lens of modern design, Zaborin Ryokan stands as a masterclass in contemplative luxury. Whether you arrive to carve powdery ski trails or simply to surrender to stillness, the ryokan’s serene embrace reminds us that true luxury lies in presence, place, and the quiet rituals that connect us to both.